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Field Notes

New Delhi travel guides

Dispatches on itineraries, day trips and the essentials — written area by area, not generated from a template.

Sandstone gateway of Humayun's Tomb with visitors crossing the lawn
Itineraries

48 hours in New Delhi

Two nights, one hotel, and roughly 14 hours of actual sightseeing. Here is the route that covers Old Delhi, Lutyens' Delhi and the Mughal south without a wasted taxi ride.

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Tree-lined avenue in Lodhi Garden with a domed tomb behind
Itineraries

One week in New Delhi

Seven days is enough to see all four historic Delhis, take two day trips and still have an afternoon doing nothing in Lodhi Garden. Here is how to spend the week, area by area.

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Backpackers walking a narrow Paharganj lane past guesthouse signs
Itineraries

New Delhi in 3 days on a budget

Three days in Delhi for about ₹2,200 a day, all in. Here is where the ₹700 dorm beds actually are, which monuments charge nothing, and how to eat well for ₹300.

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Colonial-era hotel corridor with polished stone floor and framed prints
Itineraries

New Delhi in 3 days, upgraded

The same three days with a car, a guide and a hotel worth staying in. Rooms from ₹12,000 to ₹35,000, and the six meals that justify the flight.

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Marble dome of the Taj Mahal seen across the forecourt at dawn
Day trips

Day trip to Agra from New Delhi

Agra is 165 kilometres south on the Yamuna Expressway and 100 minutes by the fastest train. Here is the timetable that works, and the ₹1,300 of tickets you will need.

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Pink sandstone facade of Hawa Mahal above a Jaipur street
Day trips

Day trip to Jaipur from New Delhi

Jaipur is 280 kilometres south-west and now under five hours by expressway. It is a long day — here is the 06:05 train plan that makes it work, and the ₹1,000 composite ticket.

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Temple spires and pilgrims on a ghat beside the Yamuna at Vrindavan
Day trips

Day trip to Mathura and Vrindavan from New Delhi

Krishna's birthplace and the town of his childhood sit 150 kilometres south on the Yamuna Expressway, close enough for a comfortable day. Here are the darshan timings that decide your schedule.

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Terraced sandstone fort palace built into an Aravalli hillside
Day trips

Day trip to Neemrana from New Delhi

A fifteenth-century Rajasthani fort-palace 122 kilometres down NH-48, with India's first zip-line course and a nine-storey stepwell. Two and a half hours each way, and the easiest escape from Delhi.

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Painted storks in a shallow wetland with cycle rickshaws on a park track
Day trips

Day trip to Bharatpur from New Delhi

Keoladeo National Park is a UNESCO-listed wetland 180 kilometres south, with 370-plus recorded bird species and a ₹100 bicycle. Here is how to do it between dawn and dinner.

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Colonial-era colonnade and hotel signage on the outer circle of Connaught Place, New Delhi
Essentials

Where to stay in New Delhi

Ten neighbourhoods compared on honest nightly rates, from ₹700 dorm beds in Paharganj to ₹30,000 suites on Dr Zakir Hussain Marg — and the metro-distance trade-offs nobody mentions in the listing photos.

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Winter morning fog over the lawns and tomb domes of Lodhi Garden in New Delhi
Essentials

When to visit New Delhi

Delhi has four distinct weather personalities across 12 months, temperatures spanning 5°C to 46°C, and a six-week smog window most guidebooks skip. Here is when to come, and when hotel rates halve.

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Delhi Metro train arriving at an elevated platform with commuters waiting behind yellow lines
Essentials

Getting around New Delhi

The Metro moves 6 million people a day across 10 colour-coded lines for ₹10–₹60 a ride. Here is how to combine it with autos, app cabs and e-rickshaws without losing hours to traffic.

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Indian rupee notes and coins being handed across a market counter in New Delhi
Essentials

Money, tipping, and prices in New Delhi

What things actually cost in Delhi, from a ₹20 samosa to a ₹6,500 tasting menu, plus daily budgets at 3 spending levels and the tipping norms locals genuinely follow.

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Busy pedestrian street in Old Delhi with rickshaws, shopfronts and overhead wires
Essentials

Safety and street smarts in New Delhi

Delhi's real risks are scams, traffic and air quality, not violent crime. Here are the 6 hustles you will actually encounter, the numbers to save, and how to move through the city like you have been here before.

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Butter chicken and dal makhani served with naan at a Delhi restaurant table
Food & drink

Signature dishes of India in New Delhi

Butter chicken was invented in Daryaganj, dal makhani a street away, and 28 state cuisines have canteens in this city. A dish-by-dish guide with addresses and prices.

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Sacks of red chillies and spices stacked in the Khari Baoli wholesale spice market
Food & drink

Best markets in New Delhi

From Asia's largest spice market to a Sunday book bazaar with 250 stalls — 12 Delhi markets worth your time, with opening days, closing days and what to actually pay.

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Street vendor frying golden bhature in a large pan at a Delhi food stall
Food & drink

Cheap eats in New Delhi under ₹500

Delhi is the best-value food city in India: 20 addresses where two people eat well for under ₹500 total, plus the hygiene rules that keep you out of trouble.

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Evening crowds beside the sarovar at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib in central New Delhi
Experiences

Free things to do in New Delhi

More than 20 of Delhi's best hours cost nothing at all — a 200-acre ruin field, a 24-hour free kitchen, and Thursday qawwali. Here is what is genuinely free, what costs ₹20, and which neighbourhood to book so you can walk to most of it.

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Bar counter and low lighting in a South Delhi neighbourhood cocktail bar at night
Experiences

New Delhi nightlife: where to go and where to skip

Most Delhi bars call last orders by 12:30am and the metro stops around 11pm, so a good night here needs planning. Here are the six areas worth your evening, the ones that have coasted on reputation since 2016, and where to book a room if you would rather walk home than argue with an autorickshaw.

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Domes of a Mughal tomb silhouetted against an orange Delhi sky at dusk
Experiences

Best sunset spots in New Delhi

Delhi's sun sets anywhere between 5:25pm in late December and 7:25pm in mid-June, and half the good viewpoints lock their gates at the same moment. Here are 12 places to be at golden hour, with gate times, ticket prices and the neighbourhoods worth booking so you can walk back.

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